Starting Point: Belgrade to Zürich
Here’s an overview of my Christmas trip to Zermatt and Chamonix, an epic Tour de Alps that I’ve been planning since the summer. Utilizing few days off with holidays, I’ve managed to spend almost 8 days skiing in Europe. I planned and did this trip entirely solo, so I’ve put this guide for anyone out there looking to venture out on a similar adventure.
Few photos from Belgrade
Itinerary Highlights: Zürich, Zermatt, Chamonix, and Geneva
My trip started in Belgrade where I collected my ski equipment, and from there I flew to Zürich where I’ve spent 1 night by the train station, so that early morning I could take a train to Zermatt. Hotel I’ve stayed in was conveniently located by the train stop (3min walk), close to the airport (about 20 min taxi ride) and cost about $140 a night. My trip itinerary consisted of Zürich (1 night), Zermatt (3 nights), Chamonix (4 night), and then flight back from Geneva.
Zurich
Travel Tips:
1. Planning – I booked my hotels in August, and even then, most of accommodation in Zermatt were booked, there were only few hotels left. Chamonix had way more availability and was slightly less expensive.
*Hotel in Zermatt – Ambiance Zermatt (3-star hotel, during Christmas holiday room was about $500 a night, no breakfast included). It was decent size, spacious and comfy, had most of amenities (expect for coffee which they wanted you to order from the hotel lobby) but had outstanding views of Matterhorn. What I liked about the hotel was the cozy homey feeling, it felt like staying in a Chalet with a nice lobby lounge area. Outdoor jacuzzi was great, as well as proximity to the gondola, town center and ski shuttle bus. What I didn’t like was the price – $500 a night for 3-star hotel was too much, but it is Zermatt, and everything is expensive.
*Hotel in Chamonix – Alpina Eclectic Hotel (3-star hotel for $500 a night with buffet breakfast included). Rooms are small, but very clean with spacious and comfy bed. The best part about the hotel was breakfast buffet on the top floor with amazing views, delicious food, and variety of dishes to choose from. Also ski bus shuttle was right outside of hotel which was great considering that then you don’t have to carry your ski equipment too far. What I didn’t like was the fact that the place was too crowded, and the rooms were extremely small.
Chamonix, and breakfast view from Alpina
2. Snow Conditions – even though I traveled somewhat early season (Christmas and NYE) snow conditions were very poor, and it was probably one of the worst beginning seasons in the Alps. However, I got lucky in Zermatt, it was snowing when I got there, so I got some fresh powder but not all runs and lifts were open. Italian side was closed for us to access which was unfortunate.
3. Transportation – I flew to Zürich, and from Zurich took Train to Zermatt – 1st class ticket $137 (Rail Europe) but I could have gotten away with 2nd class too, not much of a difference. Train was so comfortable and had an amazing restaurant on 2nd level with food and drinks. It was an awesome way to start my trip, sitting in a restaurant, talking with locals and travelers, and enjoying stunning views of the Alps. There was one layover in Visp, but not too complicated. Zermatt is car free, so even if you rent a car, you would have to park in a nearby village and take a train to Zermatt.
Train ride from Zurich to Zermatt
Zermatt Insights:
– $$$$ – pricey and fancy, everything from groceries, restaurants, souvenirs, etc. Be prepared to spend extra bucks for wine & dine, and to purchase some gifts (example magnet is €9.90).
– There are free shuttle busses that take you to Gondola, you can take taxi (12-14 CHF) or you can walk there since the village is pretty small. I took bus sometimes and sometimes walking was more efficient.
– You will need to go to the ticket office with your IKON pass to get a local pass printed out. You can’t scan your IKON for the lift / gondola.
– Bonus with IKON – you can take the train ride to Gornergrat and also I believe gondola to Matterhorn glacier (haven’t tried it though but I’m sure you can use it).
– Must visit while skiing on the slopes – Iglu dorf bar, and Fluhalp restaurant.
Iglu dorf bar
Fluhalp
Transportation Between Zermatt and Chamonix:
From Zermatt to Chamonix, I took train (4 different trains, about 3.5h ride. Zermatt – Visp – Martigny – Vallorcine – Chamonix) which was somewhat hustle but taking the Mont Blanc express train from Martigny to Vallorcine was extraordinary, the most beautiful train ride ever on the mountains. It cost about $100 total, and make sure to check if you are getting full day or specific time ticket (for example if train ticket from Zermatt to Visp can be used anytime during the day or at an actual time ) also make sure to purchase tickets in advance, since they will charge you additional 75 CHF if you are to buy them inside the train.
Chamonix Insights:
- Chamonix also you don’t need a car, you can walk pretty much everywhere in town, and to get to the gondola you can take local bus which my hotel provided me with tickets (but I think they cost 2-3 euros). And for 5 days I was there no one was checking the tickets. Bus takes you to all the local ski lifts and villages so you can go to Les Grand Montets, Le Tour, La Flegere and Brevent. For Vallorcine you need to take train, or you can ski from Le Tour. Another advice here is to get a hotel close to the bus stop (I stayed at Alpina eclectic and had a bus stop right in front, which made it super convenient)
- Courmayeur Italy – a MUST visit. I hired a ski instructor to take me there and show me around the mountain. He picked me up and we drove there (car drive was about 30min) but there are local buses, and they take 45min -1h (cheap too). Courmayeur is not on IKON so additional pass is required and cost around 60 euros. Beautiful stunning views of the Alps, Italian restaurants on the slopes, some vintage/unique lifts /gondola and just an awesome day ski trip to take while you’re in Chamonix.
Courmayeur
- Chamonix is much cheaper than Zermatt and way more vibrant and happening.
- Folie deuce is a famous après-ski place in Chamonix, and it is a must visit while you’re there.
Folie deuce Chamonix
Transportation Between Chamonix and Geneva:
From Chamonix I took a bus back to Geneva 1h 20min (16 euros takes you straight to the airport) from where I flew home.
General Travel Tips:
– Do not go during Christmas and NYE for few reasons: first it is too expensive and too crowded, especially Chamonix was extremely busy with lots of families taking their year-end holiday. Snow conditions very poor and not enough snow to enjoy the mountain fully. If you want to do off-piste skiing (example Valle Blanche in Chamonix) you need to come end of January or later. You can also reach out to local guides (Instagram, website etc) and they will tell you the same thing. Also, not a lot of party après ski places were open since it is early season. Same with Zermatt not enough snow for all the lifts and runs to be open.
– You don’t need a car – just take the train / bus and enjoy the beautiful scenery.
– Rent skis locally to save luggage space, and so that you can buy a lot of cheese, snacks, souvenirs, and wine to take back home instead of ski equipment.
– Credit cards accepted everywhere so don’t worry about cash – even Amex accepted in most places.
– Check if your hotel has free spa/jacuzzi access or they charge extra for it. I’ve seen some places there is an extra charge. You really need a jacuzzi for muscle relief after full day of skiing.
– If you have time try ski touring, since it is a popular activity in Alps right now.
Some pics from the trip below:
Personal Reflection:
Despite the challenges, including suboptimal snow conditions, I had an incredible time. Zermatt’s luxury and charm were balanced by Chamonix’s vibrancy, creating a memorable ski adventure. If you have any questions or need further suggestions, feel free to reach out!
